Scarborough is not just a pretty seaside town; it was also the first Victorian seaside resort.
Long before Blackpool or Brighton, Scarborough transformed the British seaside holiday into quite an extravagant affair. This article explores how this Yorkshire gem became the go-to destination for Victorian holidaymakers and why the 19th-century elite desired its blend of natural beauty, seaside attractions, and spa treatments. Also, is Scarborough’s charm still alive today?
Scarborough’s origins
Scarborough is said to have been founded around 966 AD by a Viking raider named Thorgils Skarthi, and the place was initially called Skarðaborg. This claim comes from an Icelandic saga, but there isn’t any archaeological proof to back it up. The idea was popularised in the 1960s during local events, but some evidence might have been lost to the sea because of coastal erosion.
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In the 4th century, there was a Roman signal station on the Scarborough headland, and before that, people lived there during the Stone Age and Bronze Age. However, from the 5th to the 9th centuries, any settlements would have been destroyed by Viking raids led by Tostig Godwinson or Harald III of Norway.
As a result, very little evidence of life in Scarborough during this time was available when the Domesday survey was done in 1085. It’s also worth noting that the original nearby village of Falsgrave was mostly Anglo-Saxon, not Viking.
Scarborough went on to become a small fishing town with no promenade or grand seafront. The beach was mainly used for local activities like fishing and trade.
Scarborough thrived under King Henry II
King Henry II built a stone castle in Scarborough and granted the town its charters in 1155 and 1163, allowing a market and establishing local governance.
Later, Edward II gave Scarborough Castle to Piers Gaveston. However, Gaveston was captured after the castle was attacked by barons, including Percy, Warenne, Clifford, and Pembroke, and he was eventually executed.
In 1318, the Scots, led by Sir James Douglas, burned Scarborough after taking Berwick upon Tweed.
During the Middle Ages, the Scarborough Fair began in 1253 through a royal charter and became a major six-week trading event attracting merchants across Europe. This fair lasted 500 years, from the 13th to the 18th century, and is famously remembered in the song “Scarborough Fair.”
Scarborough and its castle changed ownership seven times between Royalists and Parliamentarians during the English Civil War in the 1640s, enduring two prolonged and brutal sieges. In the aftermath of the civil war, much of the town was left in ruins.
The History of Scarborough Spa
Scarborough’s journey as the first seaside resort in Britain began in the 17th century when its natural spa waters were discovered.
In 1626, Mrs Thomasin Farrer stumbled upon a stream of acidic water cascading down the cliff into the South Bay. The water’s unique chemical composition was believed to have healing properties similar to bathing salts commonly bought for home use today.
Visitor interest was significantly boosted in 1660 when Dr Robert Wittie published a book discussing the spa waters, which helped establish Scarborough Spa as Britain’s first seaside resort. It wasn’t until 1735 that the iconic bathing machines were introduced.
Visitors flocked to Scarborough
More visitors meant that the town began to cater to their needs. Amenities were added to enhance the holiday experience. By the 18th century, the spa’s popularity surged, as did the development of stylish buildings and entertainment venues.
Scarborough Spa featured concerts, grand balls, theatre performances and the spa’s therapeutic qualities. The allure of the sea, combined with entertainment, positioned Scarborough as a top destination for both health and leisure. This led to the development of the South Bay Promenade, which was built along the coastline.
More accessible travel brought tourism to Scarborough
The Victorian era saw innovations in travel that made travel more accessible and enjoyable. The Scarborough–York railway in 1845 significantly boosted visitor numbers.
The arrival of the railway in the 1840s revolutionised travel. It allowed visitors from urban centres like London and Manchester to reach Scarborough in a few hours. This newfound accessibility brought a surge of tourists eager to experience the refreshing sea air and the healing properties of the coastal spa waters. As the 19th century progressed, rail travel became cheaper, making it more affordable to more people.
From the 1880s until the onset of the First World War, Scarborough became a frequent stop for The Bass Excursions. It saw up to fifteen trains transporting between 8,000 and 9,000 employees from Bass’s Burton Brewery on their annual seaside getaway.
The introduction of bathing machines
Bathing machines were wheeled huts that allowed space for changing into bathing suits. At first, they were drawn by horses, and a servant would help women into the sea.
They added a touch of Victorian propriety to the beach experience! Bathing machines allowed visitors to enjoy the beach while maintaining societal norms of modesty. Bathing machines soon became a hallmark of the seaside, transforming swimming into a leisurely activity that attracted more people.
Chapter 24 in Agnes Grey by Anne Brontë describes the morning preparations on a beach in a bathing town and mentions bathing machines.
The legal segregation of bathing zones in Britain ended in 1901, leading to a swift decline in the use of bathing machines. For a time, these machines were repurposed as stationary changing rooms.
By 1914, most of them had vanished from the UK, and by the early 1920s, they were nearly extinct, even on beaches that catered to an older crowd.
The construction of grand hotels
Grand hotels made Scarborough even more appealing. The iconic Grand Hotel, completed in 1867, is pure Victorian grandeur with ornate architecture. At the time of its opening in 1867, it was the largest hotel and the largest brick structure in Europe. The Grand Hotel catered to the rising middle class seeking a taste of elegance during their seaside holidays.
Who visited Scarbourgh?
In the early days of seaside holidays, most Victorian visitors were families of tradesmen and white-collar workers. This included accountants, shopkeepers, and managers. They engaged in activities like bathing, strolling along the promenade, riding donkeys, collecting shells, exploring monuments, and simply relaxing on the beach.
As rail travel became more affordable, these holidaymakers were soon joined by families of skilled manual workers. The introduction of bank holidays in 1871 allowed them to enjoy extended stays at the seaside if their finances permitted.
By the close of the 19th century, even some ordinary manual workers began to have the means to take day trips to the coast.
The seafront continued to grow
The North Bay saw the development of new parks, piers, and a more family-friendly atmosphere. The town’s beaches were further developed, with more attractions for tourists.
By the mid-20th century, Scarborough’s seafront faced some decline as some of its older buildings and attractions became outdated. But the town gradually regenerated, updating the South Bay and North Bay areas.
What is Scarborough like today?
It is still popular with families, couples, retirees, day trippers and nostalgic visitors today. The seafront has arcades, ice cream stands, and gift shops.
Scarborough has faced some economic decline, which is visible in certain areas. There are ongoing efforts to honour its Victorian heritage while also appealing to newer trends in tourism. Areas like the Italian Gardens and Peasholm Park have been restored to enhance the appeal of the seafront.
While the beaches are beautiful, they’re not the pristine white-sand paradises you might find on an affordable holiday abroad. The water quality varies, and the beach can get crowded during peak season. Nonetheless, for many, the British seaside experience is more about the atmosphere!
Scarborough’s seafront has transformed beautifully over the years. It has evolved from a quaint fishing village into a stylish Victorian resort and a beloved family holiday destination today. In the comments, let us know what you think of Scarborough today.
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